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January 19, 2002

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From Kisumu, Kenya, we drive into Uganda, a country overshadowed by memories of Idi Amin, corruption, mass murder, and civil war. We canít help recalling this troubled history as we cross the border. A generation has passed since Idi Aminís government suspended all political rights, murdered an estimated 300,000 citizens opposed to the regime, and expelled all Asians. Uganda sank into economic oblivion. In his last crazy act as leader, Amin declared war on Tanzania. When the Tanzanian army and Ugandan rebels defeated him, Amin fled to Saudi Arabia where he lives today. Uganda moves on, the current president, Museveni, is an enlightened dictator who has turned the economy around. The road to Kampala, Uganda's capital, is safe and in good condition. We stop there at a campsite called the Red Chile Hideaway.
Maribu storks jaywalk in the streets of Kampala.
And if a stork isn't jaywalking, there's always a guy with a load of mattresses on his head.