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September 23, 2002

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Moscow seduces us with one hand and slaps our face with the other. It's one of the world's most beautiful cities. Numerous churches decorate the horizon with their rainbow onion domes. Stalin's "Seven Sisters," gothic skyscrapers, hem the skyline. The Bolshoi theatre, Kremlin, Red Square, and metro are the best in kind. On the other hand, roving bands of drunken police make us yearn for muggers (muggers can't rob and throw us in jail). Moscow rings an ominous note; someone always seems to be watching. A burly security guard stands at the door of every hotel, restaurant, and shop. A formidable 'dezhurna,' a maid/hall monitor, stares at us from her post at the end of the hall and rushes into our room after we leave. No one smiles and service can be so rude it makes us laugh in amazement..
St Basil's looks grand inside and out.
Lenin's tomb, free admission. He looks a little pale.