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January 8, 2003

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Tehran sprawls across Iran's northern plains; it feels like Los Angeles on steroids. Crossing the street requires steel nerves, a rock solid insurance policy, and luck. Cars throng the streets. In Tehran there exist two modes of traffic: rush hour and out-of-control stampede. At least the people are friendly. We have many pleasant conversations with various Iranians: a young religious student shows us around Tehran bazaar, an Iranian businessman helps us find our way on the metro (and even pays for our tickets).
Tehran's National Museum is a highlight: from a bas-relief of Darius (king of the world in his day) to the preserved, 1600 year old head of Salt Man, a miner who's head, leather boot, tools, and body parts were preserved in the salt where he died.
Wherever you go in Tehran you'll see poignant reminders of the Iran-Iraq war: building sized images of the men who fought and died.
Cutting glass for those glitzy Iranian mosques.
If you want traffic of the human kind, seek out Tehran's metro. This stop commemorates the Supreme leader of the Islamic Revolution, Imam Khomeini.