From Katavi National Park we hitched our way out (the only method available) with jeep soldiers. At first we're overjoyed our transport isn't a slow moving truck. Then we learned that the soldiers drove like madmen. We stood in the back on piles of soldier supplies, jammed with twenty villagers (yes, twenty people packed in the back of that small vehicle), clinging for life as the soldiers drove as if they dodged oncoming shellfire. A terrified little boy peed all over Jill.

When rocking and swaying didin't throw us from the vehicle, road dust almost snuffed out our lives. Grimy faces make our teeth look neon white.

The soldiers drop us off on the shores of Lake Tanganyika at a small village called Ikola. One 'restaurant' exists here, with an excellent cook, although patrons should bring their own ingredients if they expect food to be served.