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September 19, 2003

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Look at a map and it seems that Zambia lies on its side like a fallen figure-eight. The land tilts from North to South and the Congo pinches into Zambia's center and divides it between West and East. Our chimp adventure left us stranded in the northern part of Zambia's West (the left side of the figure-eight). These are the Copperbelt Highlands, once a prosperous section, made poor since the price of copper slumped in the 1970's. Derelict copper mines lie empty on the outskirts of these hard luck towns. From here we want to reach the right side of the figure-eight, a journey that will probably take us two days.
If a bus or pickup driver says he will leave soon make sure to check the vehicle. If it isn't filled to the bursting point then it won't be going anywhere; there's no such thing as an empty passenger vehicle on the road. Today we sat at a pickup station for an entire afternoon, waiting for a truck to fill up. Night fell and the passengers spent the night on the flatbed. We pitched our tent in a courtyard nearby.